My first memory of Aaheli at The Peerless Inn, Kolkata, is from nearly 22 or 23 years ago, when the still-new (despite its presence for nearly three years in the market) establishment was becoming popular for the fact that it served Bengali food. We had ordered the daab chingri for lunch (one of the last times when I had eaten seafood without breaking out in hives, ah youth and hormones!), and I remember seeing eyes close at the smell of the sea mingling with coconuts. We had had other things, but daab chingri always make me think of Aaheli – that, and the quirky names they would give their dishes, playing on words and sounds.
Over two decades later, I stood and clapped as Aaheli celebrated its 25th year in the Kolkata food scene, winning accolades all through the way, with twenty five new items on the menu, a short Foodka review courtesy Indrajit Lahiri and Mir, and the launch of a short booklet, with contributions by Pritha Sen, Pikturenama Anindya S Basu, and Finely Chopped Kalyan Karmakar in it.
The event marked the launch of items like Piyaj Dim er Posto, Phoolkopi Chingri Chechki, Begun Bhetkir Talmil, Paturi Panch Kahon, Potol Bhora Bhetki, Bahari Borar Bahar, Posto Makha Roopchanda, Pujo Barir Mangsho, Aar Potol er Ghonto, Kachupatay Chingri, Peyajkoli te Chingri and Bata Chingrir Murgi in it, so I was almost certain my dinner was sorted, and sorted for good!
Cut to an hour later when I sat with a plate piled with Pujo Barir Mangsho, the soft meat and lightly sweet gravy offsetting the hot ghee-laden pulao, a side of excellent potol shorshe narkel diye, pointed gourds benefiting majorly from a dousing in a mustard-coconut paste, and piping hot luchi, paired with a generous serving of chholar dal, simple and one of the things that’s extremely easy to mess up.
A second round to the serving segment scored me some amshotto khejurer chutney and stor bhapa sondesh, smelling faintly of two in one ice cream and nostalgia. The dishes are available a-la-carte and there’s special thalis as well all through the year. Aaheli functions between 12 noon and 3.30 pm for lunch, and 7 pm to 11 pm for dinner, and a meal for two will set you back approximately 3500/- plus tax.
Disclaimer: Poorna Banerjee was invited to the launch of the new menu additions.
